Chances are you’ll ask why anybody exterior of a concours restorer can be utilizing a points-ignition distributor on this age of electronically managed every part. A correctly rebuilt and tuned factors distributor can the truth is work completely high quality in nearly any inventory or avenue efficiency engine. Whilst you do need to sustain on the upkeep and test the factors each from time to time, a factors distributor has the benefit of not having any electronics that may fail all of the sudden and go away you stranded.
Let’s take the case of two Nineteen Sixties-vintage Ford distributors—an Autolite C4AF used on small blocks from 1962 to 1964 and the improved Autolite C5AF (truly C8TF) used from 1965 on up. These single-point distributors are simple to tune.
Beneath a light-weight load and part-throttle, ignition timing is managed by the vacuum advance as consumption manifold vacuum will increase beneath preliminary acceleration. This offers you energy proper off idle, bettering throttle response and effectivity. The vacuum advance arms off to the mechanical (centrifugal) advance as engine RPM will increase till complete advance is all in at roughly 3,500 RPM. The problem is getting the vacuum advance to easily segue into mechanical advance as revs improve.
There are two forms of vacuum advance modules for Ford distributors. The manufacturing unit “shim fashion” advance unit is tuned by including or subtracting shims. Add shims and the speed of advance slows down. Subtract shims and the speed of advance will increase. Aftermarket vacuum advances are adjusted with an Allen wrench via the vacuum port. Flip the wrench clockwise to sluggish the advance charge or counterclockwise to hurry up the advance charge.
We’re going to indicate you two generations of Ford point-triggered distributors put in on the preferred Ford, Mercury, and Lincoln automobiles.
This can be a typical Autolite single-point distributor with a manufacturing unit vacuum advance unit. (Picture/Jim Sensible)Ford distributor identification is simple, with the half quantity (black arrow) and the date code (pink arrow) stamped on the housing. Previous to 1965, Ford distributors had been outfitted with a service oil wick (white arrow). (Picture/Jim Sensible)That is an Autolite C4AF factors distributor with vacuum advance for 1962-64 small block Ford V8s. Additionally proven are a Pertronix Ignitor module, an aftermarket vacuum advance, and shaft bushings. The bushings, which have lengthy been difficult to get, at the moment are broadly obtainable. Take note there are two shaft sizes—.468-inch for 1962-64 and .531-inch for 1965-up. (Picture/Jim Sensible)These are all the elements that make up a 1965-up Ford single-point distributor. The vacuum advance canister on the left is the manufacturing unit half, the one on the fitting is aftermarket. (Picture/Jim Sensible)That is the dual-point Ford distributor for high-performance purposes just like the 289 Excessive Efficiency engine. It’s fitted with manufacturing unit substitute elements like phenolic pivots and huge, vented ignition factors. (Picture/Jim Sensible)Starting in 1969, Ford dual-point distributors had been outfitted with vacuum advance, primarily for emissions discount. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The OEM Ford breaker plate is simple to service. The nylon rub “buttons” and pivot are put on gadgets. Whenever you exchange them, use high-temperature lubricant for clean operation. (Picture/Jim Sensible)That is the OEM Ford vacuum advance unit. The speed of advance is adjusted by including or subtracting shims (black arrow). Ford referred to as these shims “adjustment washers.” Add shims to sluggish the speed of advance or take away shims to extend the speed of advance—they management spring strain towards the diaphragm. The advance charge is how shortly vacuum advance rolls in as you begin out. (Picture/Jim Sensible)Aftermarket and later Ford OEM vacuum advance models are adjusted with an Allen wrench as proven. Flip the Allen wrench clockwise to sluggish the speed of advance and counterclockwise to hurry up the speed of advance. (Picture/Jim Sensible)Distributor shaft bushings are from left B8QH-12120-A (.468-inch I.D.), C5AZ-12120-A, and C5AZ-12132-A (each .531-inch I.D.). Choice relies upon upon shaft diameter and technology. (Picture/Jim Sensible)We’re going to disassemble an early 1962-64 Autolite C4AF single-point Ford distributor. It begins with the elimination of the mechanical advance retaining clip. (Picture/Jim Sensible)Right here is the mechanical advance mechanism, which incorporates the flyweights and is derived. Spring pressure determines the speed of centrifugal advance. The sunshine spring is the first advance spring whereas the heavier spring is the secondary spring. The arms are bent in or out to regulate spring pressure. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The flyweights slide off the advance mechanism as soon as the springs have been eliminated. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The distributor shaft needs to be simple to take away from the housing except it’s sludged up. WD-40 will enable you to free it from the housing. We cleaned the shaft with a wire wheel. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The distributor drive gear is retained with a pressure pin, which is pushed out with a punch. The gear must be pushed off of the shaft utilizing a press. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The distributor shaft collar’s pressure pin is pushed out with a punch, then the shaft is pressed out of the collar as proven. (Picture/Jim Sensible)That is the 1965-up C5AF Autolite single-point distributor housing (on this picture C8TF). These housings could be fitted with both one or two shaft bushings. This one has two—the C5AZ-12120-A important bushing (arow) and the smaller C5AZ-12132-A bushing positioned on the backside of the housing. The bushings could be pushed out with a hydraulic press in the event that they must be changed. By no means use a hammer and a drift. (Picture/Jim Sensible)Disassembly is far the identical as what we confirmed with the C4AF distributor, so we’ll skip that right here. As you’ll be able to see, the shaft is machined with a barber pole fashion oil channel, which carries engine oil to the shaft and bushings. Generously lube this shaft with engine meeting lube and slide it into the housing. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The mechanical advance head is lubricated for clean operation, then fitted on the shaft. You need this man to swivel easily on the shaft. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The mechanical advance springs are of various tensions and put in as proven. Bear in mind, the sunshine spring is the first advance spring whereas the heavier spring is the secondary spring. Don’t combine them up. (Picture/Jim Sensible)This retaining clip is reinstalled and secured to the shaft. A felt lubrication pad is fitted above this clip and saturated with 10W weight engine oil. You employ engine meeting lube contained in the cam button earlier than putting in the felt pad. (Picture/Jim Sensible)That is an unique Ford breaker plate. it rides on these nylon buttons, which should be lubricated with excessive temperature grease. The OEM plates are the only option if yow will discover any that aren’t worn out. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The breaker plate drops in as proven and is secured with two machine screws. (Picture/Jim Sensible)Distributor shaft endplay between the collar and housing needs to be .024- to .035-inch in keeping with Ford Efficiency. As soon as seated within the block, the space between the drive gear and block needs to be .005-inch. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The distributor drive gear is pressed onto the shaft with a press. Should you’ve opted for a curler camshaft, you will have a bronze or composite drive gear. The manufacturing unit iron gear is okay with a flat tappet iron camshaft as a result of they’ve the identical hardness. The retaining pin is reinstalled as proven. (Picture/Jim Sensible)As a result of putting in and adjusting ignition level hole tends to be a misplaced artwork, we’re going to indicate you the way to do it. Run the screws down comfortable, however not tight. Match a clear thickness gauge between the purpose contacts and set the hole at .018-.020-inch. Earlier than you take away the gauge, tighten the screws and test the hole once more. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The vacuum advance unit is put in subsequent. The arm is secured to the breaker plate with a C-clip, and the canister is secured to the housing with fine-thread screws. (Picture/Jim Sensible)Join the ignition and condenser leads, then comfortable the brass nut. (Picture/Jim Sensible)Ignition factors aren’t created equal. Listed here are two examples—OEM Ford factors on the left and low-buck aftermarket factors on the fitting. The Ford factors have a phenolic pivot and huge copper contact factors. The bigger the contacts, the higher. The aftermarket factors have a plastic pivot and rubbing block, which won’t final. Your best choice is Accel’s ignition factors. They’ve a composite pivot and rubbing block alongside giant copper contact factors. (Picture/Jim Sensible)By no means lower corners with distributor caps. Get one with brass or copper terminals, which presents the most effective safety towards misfire and crossfire. (Picture/Jim Sensible)Should you don’t need to mess with factors, you’ll be able to convert your traditional Ford distributor to digital ignition with a retrofit Pertronix Ignitor equipment. That is the unique Pertronix Ignitor, which you’ll be able to determine by the black housing. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The Pertronix Ignitor II goes the unique Ignitor one higher with Adaptive Dwell know-how that maintains peak spark power all through your entire RPM vary. The Ignitor II develops 4 occasions extra obtainable power between 3,000 and 5,000 RPM whereas constantly adjusting spark timing for peak efficiency. (Picture/Jim Sensible)The Pertronix Ignitor III presents multi-spark know-how and an adjustable digital rev limiter with a reminiscence operate that shops your settings, eliminating unintended any modifications to the rev restrict. Adaptive dwell maintains peak power all through your entire RPM vary. Go for a 40,000-volt Pertronix Flame Thrower ignition coil with any Pertronix ignition. That may present a really constant spark to nearly get rid of misfire. (Picture/Jim Sensible)Each distributor rebuild deserves knowledgeable advance recurving. Each vacuum and mechanical advance need to be curved (tuned) to the kind of engine and supposed use. This is usually a labor intensive course of involving springs and shims to get the curve dialed in. (Picture/Jim Sensible)
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